Finishing Butcher Block: Lessons From Installing My Own
I installed butcher block countertops in my kitchen about six years ago. The installation was the easy part. Finishing them correctly took three tries before I got it right, and I have refinished them once since. Here is what I know now that I wish I knew then.

First thing to understand: butcher block counters are a commitment. They are not install and forget like granite or quartz. They need regular attention. If you are not willing to maintain them, get something else. I am not judging – just being realistic.
What You Need Before Starting
Gather this stuff before you begin because once you start sanding, you do not want to stop halfway to run to the store:
- Sandpaper in 100, 150, and 220 grit – more than you think you need
- Random orbital sander – do not try to do this by hand unless you hate yourself
- Tack cloths – cheap and worth it
- Mineral oil – food grade, you can get it at any pharmacy
- Clean rags – old t-shirts work great
- Painters tape if you have backsplash or walls to protect
- Drop cloth for your floor
Prep Work That Actually Matters
Clear everything off. I mean everything. Move the toaster, the coffee maker, the fruit bowl. You are going to make dust and you do not want it in your coffee tomorrow.
Start sanding with 100 grit if your counters are new or 80 if they are beat up. Go with the grain, always. I learned this the hard way – cross-grain scratches show through any finish.

Move up through the grits – 100, then 150, then 220. Each step removes the scratches from the previous grit. Skip a step and those scratches will haunt you forever.
Between each sanding, wipe everything down with a tack cloth. Seriously. Sawdust left behind will get trapped in your finish and look terrible.
The Finish Itself
Mineral oil is what I use and what I recommend. Here is why:
It is food safe. No question, no waiting for cure time, completely safe from day one.
It is cheap. A bottle from the drugstore costs a few bucks and will do multiple applications.
It is forgiving. Apply too much? Just wipe it off. Apply too little? Add more. There is no wrong way to do it.
Pour a generous amount on the counter. Spread it around with a clean rag. Work it into the wood using circular motions. Let it soak for 15-20 minutes. Wipe off everything that has not absorbed.
That first coat will disappear into the wood like it was never there. This is normal. The wood is thirsty.
Multiple Coats Are Not Optional
One coat is not enough. Period. Not even close.
I do at least three coats on new butcher block, waiting 6-8 hours between coats. Some people wait overnight and that is fine too. Each coat goes on the same way but absorbs a little less as the wood saturates.

By the third coat, the wood should feel different – slightly smoother, slightly more resistant to water. Drop some water on it and it should bead up a bit instead of soaking in immediately.
Some people add beeswax to their mineral oil for extra protection. I have tried this and it works well, but plain mineral oil is fine too. The wax just adds a bit more water resistance and a nicer sheen.
Living With Butcher Block
Here is the part nobody tells you: maintaining butcher block is an ongoing thing. Not a big deal, but it is real.
I re-oil my counters every month or so. Literally takes five minutes. Pour on some oil, spread it around, wipe off the excess. Done.
How do I know when they need it? When water stops beading up and starts soaking in. When the wood starts looking a little dry or dull. When I remember that I have not done it in a while.
For daily cleaning, I use mild dish soap and water. Wipe them down, dry them off. That is it. Do not let water pool on them. Do not put hot pots directly on them. Use cutting boards for actual cutting.
Mistakes I Made So You Do Not Have To
My first attempt, I did one coat of mineral oil and called it done. Three weeks later, water rings everywhere and the wood was already looking rough.
Second attempt, I used tung oil because someone told me it was better. It is a great finish, but it takes weeks to cure properly. During those weeks, everything that touched the counter left marks. And the smell lingered way longer than I expected.
Third attempt, I finally did it right: proper sanding progression, multiple coats of mineral oil, patience between coats. Looked amazing and held up well.
Oh, and I once refinished them during a rainy week. Took forever to dry properly because of the humidity. Wait for dry weather if you can.
When to Refinish
Even with good maintenance, you will eventually need to sand everything down and start over. My counters needed it after about four years – lots of knife marks, some water damage near the sink, general wear and tear.
The refinishing process is the same as the initial finishing. Sand it all down, multiple coats of oil, regular maintenance going forward.
It is actually kind of satisfying to take beat-up counters and make them look new again. Takes a weekend but worth it.
Final Thoughts
Butcher block counters are beautiful and warm and completely different from stone. They require more maintenance but reward you with a surface that actually looks better with age and use.
If you are willing to put in the time – maybe 10 minutes a month plus the occasional refinishing – they are fantastic. If that sounds like too much work, get something else. Both are valid choices.
For me, six years in, I still love them. The patina they have developed is something you just cannot get with synthetic materials. And there is something satisfying about maintaining your own stuff instead of just expecting it to be perfect forever.