Finishing Butcher Block: Lessons From Installing My Own
Butcher block countertops has gotten complicated with all the conflicting finishing advice flying around. As someone who installed butcher block in my kitchen about six years ago and has refinished them once since, I learned everything there is to know about getting these things right. Today, I will share it all with you.
The installation was the easy part. Finishing them correctly took three tries before I nailed it. Here’s the real story of what works and what doesn’t.
First thing to understand: butcher block counters are a commitment. They’re not install-and-forget like granite or quartz. They need regular attention. If you’re not willing to maintain them, get something else. I’m not judging — just being realistic about what you’re signing up for.
What You Need Before Starting
Probably should have led with this section, honestly. Gather this stuff before you begin because once you start sanding, you don’t want to stop halfway to run to the store:
- Sandpaper in 100, 150, and 220 grit — more than you think you’ll need
- Random orbital sander — don’t try to do this by hand unless you hate yourself
- Tack cloths — cheap and absolutely worth it
- Mineral oil — food grade, you can get it at any pharmacy for a few bucks
- Clean rags — old t-shirts work great
- Painters tape if you’ve got backsplash or walls to protect
- Drop cloth for your floor
Prep Work That Actually Matters
Clear everything off. I mean everything. Move the toaster, the coffee maker, the fruit bowl. You’re going to make dust and you don’t want it in your coffee tomorrow morning.
Start sanding with 100 grit if your counters are new or 80 if they’re beat up. Go with the grain, always. I learned this the hard way — cross-grain scratches show through any finish like neon signs reminding you of your impatience.
Move up through the grits — 100, then 150, then 220. Each step removes the scratches from the previous grit. Skip a step and those scratches will haunt you forever. I’m not being dramatic. They literally show up under every finish.
Between each sanding, wipe everything down with a tack cloth. Seriously. Sawdust left behind gets trapped in your finish and looks terrible.
The Finish Itself
Mineral oil is what I use and what I recommend for butcher block. Here’s why:
It’s food safe. No question, no waiting for cure time, completely safe from day one. That’s what makes mineral oil endearing to us kitchen woodworkers — zero anxiety about what’s touching your food.
It’s cheap. A bottle from the drugstore costs a few bucks and will do multiple applications.
It’s forgiving. Apply too much? Just wipe it off. Apply too little? Add more. There’s honestly no wrong way to do it, which is refreshing after the precision sanding demands.
Pour a generous amount on the counter. Spread it around with a clean rag. Work it into the wood using circular motions. Let it soak for fifteen to twenty minutes. Wipe off everything that hasn’t absorbed.
That first coat will disappear into the wood like it was never there. This is completely normal. The wood is thirsty.
Multiple Coats Are Not Optional
One coat is not enough. Period. Not even close.
I do at least three coats on new butcher block, waiting six to eight hours between coats. Some people wait overnight and that’s fine too. Each coat goes on the same way but absorbs a little less as the wood saturates.
By the third coat, the wood should feel different — slightly smoother, slightly more resistant to water. Drop some water on it and it should bead up a bit instead of soaking in immediately. That’s your sign it’s working.
Some people add beeswax to their mineral oil for extra protection. I’ve tried this and it works well, gives a bit more water resistance and a nicer sheen. But plain mineral oil is perfectly fine too.
Living With Butcher Block
Here’s the part nobody tells you: maintaining butcher block is an ongoing thing. Not a big deal once you’re in the habit, but it’s real.
I re-oil my counters every month or so. Literally takes five minutes. Pour on some oil, spread it around, wipe off the excess. Done. I usually do it while waiting for the coffee maker on a Saturday morning.
How do I know when they need it? When water stops beading up and starts soaking in. When the wood starts looking a little dry or dull. When I remember that I haven’t done it in a while — that’s usually the most reliable indicator.
For daily cleaning, I use mild dish soap and water. Wipe them down, dry them off. That’s it. Don’t let water pool on them. Don’t put hot pots directly on them. Use cutting boards for actual cutting — yes, I know the countertop is technically a cutting surface, but you’ll thank me later.
Mistakes I Made So You Don’t Have To
My first attempt, I did one coat of mineral oil and called it done. Three weeks later, water rings everywhere and the wood was already looking rough. Rookie move.
Second attempt, I used tung oil because someone online told me it was better. It’s a great finish in general, but it takes weeks to cure properly. During those weeks, everything that touched the counter left marks. And the smell lingered way longer than I expected. My wife was not thrilled.
Third attempt, I finally did it right: proper sanding progression, multiple coats of mineral oil, patience between coats. Looked amazing and held up well.
Oh, and I once refinished them during a rainy week. Took forever to dry properly because of the humidity. Wait for dry weather if you can.
When to Refinish
Even with good maintenance, you’ll eventually need to sand everything down and start over. My counters needed it after about four years — lots of knife marks, some water damage near the sink, general wear and tear from daily life.
The refinishing process is the same as the initial finishing. Sand it all down, multiple coats of oil, regular maintenance going forward. It’s actually kind of satisfying to take beat-up counters and make them look new again. Takes a weekend but worth it.
Final Thoughts
Butcher block counters are beautiful and warm and completely different from stone. They require more maintenance but reward you with a surface that actually looks better with age and use — there’s a patina that develops over time that you just can’t get with synthetic materials.
If you’re willing to put in the time — maybe ten minutes a month plus the occasional refinishing — they’re fantastic. If that sounds like too much work, get something else. Both are valid choices. For me, six years in, I still love them. And there’s something satisfying about maintaining your own stuff instead of just expecting it to be perfect forever.
