So you just bought a nice piece of furniture, or maybe you inherited one from your parents, and you are wondering what that shiny coating is all about. Fair question. I spent years not really understanding finishes until I started refinishing furniture in my garage. Let me break down what I have learned.
The Basics: Why Furniture Even Has a Finish
Raw wood is beautiful but it is also vulnerable. It soaks up moisture, stains from everything, and can crack or warp over time. A finish is basically a protective layer that keeps the wood safe while making it look good. Think of it like sunscreen for your furniture.
Varnish: The Tough Guy
Varnish has been around forever and there is a reason for that – it works. It is made from resins, oils, and solvents that combine to form a hard, clear film when dry.
I use varnish on pieces that will take a beating. My dining table has about four coats of it because, well, three kids. It handles heat, water, and the occasional fork scrape pretty well.
The downside? Applying varnish takes patience. You need to sand between coats and each coat takes hours to dry. Rush it and you will end up with a sticky mess. Been there.
Lacquer: Fast and Shiny
Lacquer dries crazy fast – sometimes in minutes. That is why you see it on a lot of factory-made furniture. It gives a smooth, glossy finish that looks really polished.
The catch is that lacquer can be brittle. I had a lacquered coffee table that looked amazing until my wife set down a mug without a coaster. The heat made the finish crack in a ring shape. Lesson learned the hard way.
If you want to apply lacquer yourself, you really need to spray it. Brushing lacquer is frustrating because it dries so fast you get brush marks everywhere.
Oil Finishes: For That Natural Look
Linseed oil and tung oil soak right into the wood instead of sitting on top like varnish. The wood grain pops and the surface feels like, well, actual wood instead of plastic.
I love oil finishes on pieces where I want to feel the wood texture. My workshop bench has a tung oil finish and it looks better every year as it develops a patina.
But here is the thing – oil finishes need maintenance. You will probably need to reapply every year or so, especially on surfaces that see regular use. And they do not protect against water as well as film finishes.
Wax: The Old School Choice
Paste wax gives furniture a soft, warm glow that is hard to replicate with anything else. It is what gives antiques that aged look people pay big money for.
I use wax on top of other finishes sometimes, or on its own for decorative pieces that will not get much wear. It is easy to apply and easy to repair – just buff on more wax.
Do not use wax on something like a kitchen table though. It is too soft and will mark up quickly.
Shellac: The Natural Option
Fun fact: shellac comes from bug secretions. Sounds gross but it makes a beautiful finish. It dries fast, buffs to a nice sheen, and has been used for centuries.
I like shellac for antique restoration because it was commonly used historically, so it looks authentic. Plus if you mess up, you can dissolve it with alcohol and start over. Try that with polyurethane.
The weakness is durability. Water and alcohol will damage shellac, so do not use it on bar tops or dining tables where drinks might get spilled.
Polyurethane: The Modern Workhorse
Poly is what most people mean when they say varnish nowadays. It comes in oil-based (amber tone, slower drying) and water-based (clearer, faster drying) versions.
For high-use surfaces, I reach for oil-based poly. My kitchen cabinets have held up for eight years with just occasional cleaning. Water-based is great when you do not want to add any color to light woods.
The main complaint I hear is that poly can look plasticky if you apply it too thick. Multiple thin coats look way better than one or two heavy ones.
Acrylic: The Low-Fume Choice
Acrylic finishes are water-based and do not have that strong chemical smell that oil-based products have. They dry clear and stay clear – no yellowing over time.
I started using acrylics more after my shop ventilation was not cutting it for oil-based stuff. They clean up with water too, which is nice when you are done for the day.
How Do You Choose?
It really comes down to a few questions:
- How much abuse will this piece take? High wear means tougher finishes like polyurethane or varnish.
- Do you want a natural feel or more protection? Oil for feel, film finishes for protection.
- How much maintenance are you willing to do? Oils need reapplication, varnishes basically do not.
- Are you sensitive to fumes? Water-based products are easier on the lungs.
There is no single best finish. I have used all of these on different projects depending on what made sense. The fancy dining table got multiple coats of oil-based poly. The rustic farmhouse bench just got oil. Both look great and work for their purpose.
Start with what the piece needs and work backwards from there. And whatever you pick, take your time applying it. A rushed finish job always shows.
