Lacquer Spraying Tips

Why Spray Lacquer?

Wood finishing workshop setup

Lacquer delivers a beautiful, durable finish faster than any other option. It dries in minutes, can be recoated in 30-60 minutes, and produces a smooth, professional appearance. While it requires spray equipment and proper ventilation, the results and speed make lacquer the finish of choice for many professional shops.

Types of Lacquer

  • Nitrocellulose lacquer: The traditional choice. Dries fast, repairs easily, develops a warm patina over time. Susceptible to yellowing.
  • CAB-acrylic lacquer: Water-white clarity that won’t yellow. Excellent for light-colored woods and contemporary furniture.
  • Pre-catalyzed lacquer: Contains catalyst from the factory. More durable than standard lacquer with similar application properties.
  • Post-catalyzed lacquer: Mixed with catalyst before use. Most durable but has limited pot life once mixed.

Equipment Requirements

Brush applying wood finish

Successful lacquer application requires:

  • Spray gun: HVLP guns work well for most woodworking. Set fluid needle to 1.2-1.4mm for lacquer.
  • Compressor: HVLP requires 5-8 CFM at 25-30 PSI. Ensure adequate capacity for continuous spraying.
  • Ventilation: Essential for health and safety. Spray booths or outdoor spraying with appropriate respirator.
  • Respirator: Organic vapor cartridge rated for lacquer solvents.

Spraying Technique

  1. Thin properly: Most lacquers need 10-25% lacquer thinner added for spraying.
  2. Set spray pattern: Adjust for 8-10 inch wide fan pattern.
  3. Keep consistent distance: Maintain 6-8 inches from the surface.
  4. Overlap passes: Each pass should overlap the previous by 50%.
  5. Light coats: Multiple thin coats beat fewer heavy coats. Avoid runs and sags.
  6. Sand between coats: 320 grit between coats, 400+ before final coat.

Common Problems and Solutions

Wood grain with finish applied
  • Orange peel: Too little thinner, too far from surface, or low air pressure.
  • Blushing (white haze): Humidity trapping moisture. Add retarder or spray in drier conditions.
  • Runs and sags: Too much material applied. Use lighter coats.
  • Fish eyes: Contamination from silicone. Clean thoroughly or add fish-eye eliminator.
Emily Carter

Emily Carter

Author & Expert

Woodworking instructor and finishing specialist. Emily teaches hand-tool woodworking and traditional finishing at craft schools across New England. She writes about accessible techniques for hobbyist woodworkers.

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